A verified institution, Schønnemann has been lining bellies with smørrebrød (open sandwiches) and snaps since 1877. Originally a hit with farmers in town peddling their produce, the restaurant’s current fan base includes revered chefs like Noma’s René Redzepi; try the smørrebrød named after him: smoked halibut with creamed cucumber, radishes and chives on caraway bread.

Other standouts include the King’s Garden (potatoes with smoked mayonnaise, fried onions, chives and tomato). Two smørrebrød per person should suffice. Make sure to order both a beer and a glass of snaps to wash down the goodness – and always book ahead (or head in early) to avoid long lunchtime waits.

Lillian’s Smørrebrød

One of the best, the oldest (dating from 1978) and least costly smørrebrød places in the city, but word is out so you may have to opt for a takeaway as there are just a handful of tables inside and out. The piled-high, open-face sandwiches are classic and include marinated herring, chicken salad and roast beef with remoulade.

Coffees are also cheap here with a cappuccino costing just Dkr16 – a steal in this town. Note that there’s nothing fancy about the decor, in fact the place resembles a seafood market stall with its floor-to-ceiling white tiling and stainless steel counter. No worries, you’re here for the food.


Höst’s phenomenal popularity is a no-brainer: warm, award-winning interiors and New Nordic food that’s equally as fabulous and filling. The set menu is superb, with three smaller ‘surprise dishes’ thrown in and evocative creations like beef tenderloin from Grambogaard with onion compote, gherkins, cress and smoked cheese. The ‘deluxe’ wine menu is significantly better than the standard option.


Noma is a Holy Grail for gastronomes across the globe. Using only Scandinavian-sourced produce, such as musk ox and skyr curd, head chef René Redzepi and his team create extraordinary symphonies of flavour and texture. Tables are booked months ahead, so expect to join the waiting list.

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